
I have a problem with the
Eat Local Challenge. I absolutely agree that knowing where your food comes from is an important part of good eating. And, at least in California, it's not too difficult to eat a healthful diet with foods from a few miles away. At least, it is as long as you have the resources in time, money, education and transportation to do all of the necessary hunting and gathering.
But does the
eat local admonition mean everyone who wants to have a varied and sustainable diet all year long has to move to California? Or perhaps our geography gives us a moral edge over the folks in
Fargo (at least during the winter).
And can you imagine the environmental catastrophe that would occur if all the season-impacted Americans moved left for the climate? Or perhaps they'll all learn to can and I should by stock in a
canning jar company.
Absurdity aside, my problem with eat local as a movement and a cause is the impact on the producers. California has managed to maintain family farmers. Specialty crops such as peaches, grapes, figs and pistachios are allowing farms to pass from one generation to the next, along with the inherent stewardship of the land that comes with a family farm. But if the market for those farmers only extended a few hundred miles, they'd be out of business and nobody in the rest of the country would get any grapes.
And in the Midwest, where so many family farms were lost, a new generation is finding sustainability with companies such as
Niman Ranch, marketing their responsible and flavorful products all over the country.
Eat local is a wonderful idea. The pears pictured above absolutely tasted better having come from my neighbor's tree. But it only makes sense when, as with so much else, it is part of a varied diet.
So if you're lucky enough to have a cheerful neighbor with a pear tree, enjoy! And if Marin Sun Farm eggs are available to you, go ahead and gloat. But if you want some French jam or sustainably raised, heritage pork bacon from Iowa, don't feel guilty.
Eat local if you can and want. And use the Eat Local idea to encourage people to think more about their food. But don't let Eat Local become an ideology or a constraint on enjoying good food.